When it comes to creating garments, one seemingly small detail can make a big difference: the label. Whether you’re working with woven brand labels, care & content labels, or custom hang tags, understanding the terminology behind weaves, folds, cuts and finishes is vital. In this glossary we’ll walk you through the core terms you’ll encounter when ordering labels — helping you feel confident on every specification form.
1. Weaves
The “weave” of a label describes how the threads are interlaced, which determines the look, feel and durability of the label. The weave you select can impact brand perception and wearer comfort.
- Taffeta weave: A common, cost-effective weave. It’s utilitarian and flat in appearance, often used for basic brand or size labels. LabelGo+2GB Labels+2
- Satin weave: A higher-quality weave with a smooth, glossy surface. Ideal for luxury garments where the label is next to the skin. GB Labels+1
- Damask weave: A premium, high-definition weave that allows fine detail and multiple colours. It’s slower to weave and therefore more expensive — great for premium branding. bcilabels.com+1
- “Up-ground” or textured weaves: Some labels are woven with a more rugged texture and raised effect, particularly for visible outer-wear trims. xpresalabels.com
Why does weave matter? Because a coarse weave may scratch the wearer, fade or look less premium; conversely a fine weave elevates your label and, by extension, your brand.
2. Folds
How a label is folded influences both how it’s sewn into the garment and how it presents. Here are common fold types:
- Straight cut / No fold: The label is cut flat with no fold lines. Sewn on all sides or glued. Useful for patch labels or accessories. Custom Clothing Labels+1
- End fold: The two short ends (left/right) of the label are folded under, giving a neat finish and preventing fray. Common for neck labels. bcilabels.com+1
- Center fold (loop fold): The label is folded in the centre; the fold edge is sewn into a seam, and both open ends hang free (or get stitched). Ideal for brand + care instructions. Dutch Label Shop+1
- Mitre fold / Manhattan fold: More complex finishing fold types, e.g. 45-degree folds at the ends, or extra folds that create a flap/loop for hanging. These give a premium look, and can even work as an outer hem tag. Custom Clothing Labels+1
Selecting the right fold means considering where your label will sit (inside collar, side seam, hem, outside), how it will be sewn, and how it reflects your brand.
3. Cuts and Finishes
“Cuts” refers to how the label’s edges are finished and shaped; this matters for aesthetics, durability and how it’s sewn or applied. Some key terms:
- Straight cut / Fuse cut: A standard rectangular label with each edge cut. Sometimes heat-sealed to prevent fray. bcilabels.com+1
- Die cut / Laser cut / Custom shape: Labels can be cut into custom silhouettes — circles, stars, tags — using die or laser technology for special branding impact. xpresalabels.com+1
- Woven edge / sealed edge: A high quality label might have its edges woven or sealed (e.g., by ultrasonic cut) to avoid loosening threads. xpresalabels.com
The finish you choose should match the application (will it be washed?), the garment type (sleeve tag vs neck label) and your brand’s quality level.
4. Placement & Other Considerations
While the main distinctions are weave, fold and cut, the glossing over placement and backing deserves mention — because even the best technical label falls flat if positioned poorly.
- Label placement: Common positions include neck seam, side seam, inner pocket, sleeve hem or outside hem tag. GB Labels
- Backing / attachment method: Labels can be sewn, heat-sealed, or even self-adhesive. Sewn labels generally offer better durability. GB Labels
- Care & content information: Many labels combine brand branding with washing/care instructions — which can impact fold and space requirements (e.g., center-fold to allow both sides).
- Brand experience & feel: A luxury brand may opt for damask weave + mitre fold + custom die cut, while a more basic budget brand might go with taffeta weave + straight cut. The technical specs signal brand positioning to the wearer.
5. How to Use This Glossary
When you’re designing or ordering labels (for example, via the “Our Products” page on your site), keep the following workflow in mind:
- Choose where the label will go (neck, side seam, hem, external tag) → influences fold & size.
- Decide how the label will be attached (sewn in seam, bar-tacked, heat sealed) → influences backing & cut.
- Select the weave type according to budget, application and brand feel (taffeta, satin, damask).
- Choose the fold type — straight, end fold, centre fold, mitre — depending on space, mounting and design.
- Consider special cuts or finishes (custom shape, sealed edges) if you want a standout label.
- Confirm care/content space and legibility if you need extra information.
By understanding the terminology, you can navigate the spec sheet from your label manufacturer with confidence — ensuring that when you upload your labels (for example via the “Sample” page), you’ve chosen the correct options for your apparel.
6. Why It Matters for Your Brand
Labels are more than a technical add-on: they deliver a tactile experience of your branding. Imagine the contrast between a scratchy taffeta label in the collar versus a smooth satin label that sits comfortably and signals premium quality. That small detail influences the wearer’s perception of your garment.
Moreover, the label spec can affect production cost, lead time and durability. A complex weave + custom shape will cost more and may have longer lead time — so it’s worth balancing cost vs brand benefit. This is where having access to a thorough glossary (as given above) helps you make informed decisions.
Finally, once you’ve mastered the terms, you’ll be better able to explore more options and follow further reading on your blog (see our “Blog” page) to stay up-to-date with label trends, eco-friendly materials and innovative label finishes.
Need Help?
If you’d like to browse our full label product offering or request a sample, head to our Our Products page.
To see actual material and finish samples, check out our Sample page.
Want to dive deeper into label design, trends and tips? Visit our Blog.
Curious about our story and how we operate? Read more on our About Us page.
Have specific questions or need a custom quote? Get in touch via our Contact page.
Understanding the weave, fold, cut and placement of a label gives you both the technical language and the creative flexibility to choose labels that complement your clothing line — not just in function, but in brand finish. Use this glossary as your cheat-sheet when specifying labels and you’ll feel confident that every garment carries a label that aligns with your brand’s story and quality promise.